The Spring/Summer 2014 runways were a veritable gold rush, full of glorious metallic hues, with models looking like Goddesses from a bygone era.
For those of you who are aiming to look like Dolce and Gabbana’s golden Sicilian beauties but instead are finding yourself gazing in the mirror at some warped version of Cleopatra, here is a little road map to pulling off the golden look to perfection.
First you need to understand that the objective is to radiate a slightly golden glow, not to look like you’ve been painted gold.
It all begins with the complexion.
Skin needs to glow, so therefore you have to get it ready long beforehand. Keeping your skin nicely exfoliated and well hydrated is absolutely key to achieving success.
With your skin in great condition you need to build in some color. Either with a facial self tanner, or with foundation. The most important issue if you are using foundation is to get a sheer formula that lets you see through it. Anything heavy or opaque is going to kill your look before you get started.
Thick or heavy foundation looks hideous in the summer, and anything overly powdered is going to make the complexion look dusty, old and tired.
Add some warm golden highlighter with a slight sheen to the upper cheekbones. You can use it alone or mix it into your foundation. You want to create a soft glow, not a mad sparkle.
When you add sheen to your cheekbones, also hit your collarbones and shoulders if they will be exposed. You can’t work a golden glowing complexion if your shoulders and chest look flat and lifeless.
The golden accent must be worked into the skin and not sit on the surface. When it melts into the skin you look gorgeous and exotic.
The trick to making golden shadows work is to go for warmth. Yellow golds seldom look good on anyone, but bronzey warm golds and pink champagne golds look stunning on everyone. Keep the shimmer to the lid and then blend out to matte formulas to build into the crease and fade out to the brow bone. If everything shimmers we wind up looking like Cleopatra again.
Line the eye with deep expresso browns or eggplant tones instead of black.
If you add shimmer to the eye then you need to avoid shimmer on the lip. Instead opt for a gentle shine. Avoid anything too porno-glossy, opting instead for a luscious, succulent sheen.
Understand which gold is for you.
If you are fair skinned look at rosey pink champagne golds. Yellow golds will stand out against the skin and golds that are too coppery or bronzey will look muddy.
If you are medium skinned look at peachy golds to warm the skin, or if you are more olive try bronze golds.
If you have dark skin look at deep, warm coppers and bronzes.
Don’t Abuse Bronzer
My ultimate pet peeve in makeup-land is the misuse and abuse of bronzer.
Learn how to apply it correctly, and understand its objective, which is to make you look like you’ve been out in the sun.
It is not to color in the face, fix a foundation shade that is too pale, or the worst offense of them all – it is not a contour product.
Everyone second person with a youtube account or an Instagram tells you to contour with bronzer. Bronzer is made up of bronze tones designed to be a little reflective, and as I said above is to make the skin glow like you’ve just been running around outdoors on a sunny day. Contour products are made up of black , red and grey and are designed to absorb light and recede features that you want to diminish. Bronzer used as contour looks ridiculous, especially once it has worn in for a couple of hours.
When used as a contour product bronzer will ultimately make your face look muddy.